Yes, I saw that! I think I'd accidentally turned up the article and not realized it, because I marked the volume as 1996, when it's 1996-1997, and that essay's in the 1997 section!
Then just now when I was hunting for the source of the meal citation through truly convoluted means (I won't even tell you how convoluted), I fiiiiinally found the 1997 one, and went...wait, this is the one we already have! Accidental detective and librarian work, lol forever.
Re: Schöning: Days in the Life of Old Fritz
Which, as I just saw, is the exact essay you were looking for in this comment! And yes, it does mention the mustard, too, as MacDonough says.
Re: Schöning: Days in the Life of Old Fritz
Then just now when I was hunting for the source of the meal citation through truly convoluted means (I won't even tell you how convoluted), I fiiiiinally found the 1997 one, and went...wait, this is the one we already have! Accidental detective and librarian work, lol forever.