Yes, I saw that! I think I'd accidentally turned up the article and not realized it, because I marked the volume as 1996, when it's 1996-1997, and that essay's in the 1997 section!

Then just now when I was hunting for the source of the meal citation through truly convoluted means (I won't even tell you how convoluted), I fiiiiinally found the 1997 one, and went...wait, this is the one we already have! Accidental detective and librarian work, lol forever.